Like everything in South Carolina, we cook barbeque cantankerously. We smoke our meat with hundreds of opinions and often with a sense of injured pride. Otherwise, it's just different in South Carolina - all the way down to the way we spell it, more often with the garish and trashy "q" rather than the upwardly mobile and buttoned-down "c." When you mention S.C., people usually want to start a fight about sauces. The whole state is a big messy spill of sauces - there's at least four of them. As anyone who's driven south on Highway 17 knows, though, that vinegar and spices blend famously found all over eastern North Carolina is really more of a culinary wedge that plunges way down the Carolina shore, down past Scott's in Hemingway and certainly as far south as Brown's Bar-B-Que in Kingstree and even further south with the pulled pork at Cooper's Country Store in Salters.